Gascoigne School Pupils and Our Barking Exhibition

Pupils from Year 5 at Gascoigne School have added their own model of Barking and their recent research on the Fishing Industry to Our Barking – Heritage Exhibition, at St Margaret’s Church.

The Heritage Volunteers have been curating the exhibition with the support of The National Lottery Heritage Fund after three years of research into Barking’s Heritage.

Topics covered include the River Roding, Barking Abbey, Curfew Tower, the Tudor Leet House, transport, grand homes and high streets in the town centre.

George Westbrook has painstakingly researched the various high street stores which have come and gone for more than a century of high street shopping in Barking.

You can see his maps and records of the changing high streets at the exhibition and images from LBBD archives where much of the information was discovered in Valence House’s local studies library. We also reveal a restored glass and copper sign, discovered during the project’s restoration works along East Street. The mid-twentieth century sign has a W representing Worricker’s store which sold toys, nursery equipment and various ‘fancy’ goods from number 3 East Street.

Here is some of the information that George Westbrook discovered on East Street:

In 1847 the Tithe records show that Bull Street (East Street) was mainly residential and arable. Prominent people like the Hewetts, Morgans and Glennys resided in Fawley House, White House, Cecil House, and The Paddock (below before demolition in c.1910).

The latter was situated on the corner of Bull Street and Ripple Road (Blake’s Corner or more recently Boots). Fawley House and The White House were along the north side, Cecil House was set further back from the road.Cecil House - painted by Frogley The Bull Inn dates from around 1580, being rebuilt in 1885 and again in 1925. Next to the Bull we had Morgan’s Court (No.7) and Crook’s Court (No.11) containing accommodation i.e. cottages. Most of the land from the Bull to Linton Road was owned by Hewett, Glenny, Harvey, Stevenson, the Wesleyan Society and Barking Parish. In 1847 there were some 58 cottages, 17 houses, only 2 shops, 2 hop pits, barns, and dotage, 2 chapels, market gardens and Almshouses. Two pubs: The Cock was at 22, 1861 to 1891 then became the Duke of York and The Rose was opposite at No.9 or 13. The Wesleyan Society had two churches, one the on The Broadway the other on the south side of Bull Street (the site of the Capitol Cinema, more recently Poundland). According to the census Bull Street changed to East Street between 1851 and 1861. Although some medieval records show it was previously Eastreete.

The regeneration of East Street started around 1900. 1906 saw Morgan’s Court and Crooks Court (by then considered to be slums) replaced with 6 shops and a slaughter house No.1-11 East Street. The owners at the time were the Governors of the United Westminster School. There crest can still be seen on the restored 1907 buildings today Most of the new shops provided accommodation or offices above. The first shop (1) was William Warrilow Butchers, interestingly they use to walk the animals down East Street from the station to the slaughterhouse stopping all traffic while they were doing this. My uncle used to watch this happen. At No.3 was J.T.Worricker’s shop. I think this was one of the favourites of today’s older generation. With dolls hospital, toys, skipping ropes, scooters and prams etc. His first shop was at 38 East Street on the site of M&S now Iceland. Morris Tailors were at 5, Liptons Ltd at 7, J.Jones Fashion at No.9 & later Madame Yetta gowns at 11. Further along plans were submitted in 1928 for another one of Barking’s favourites Woolworth’s. This lasted until 2008 thanks to the rise in Internet shopping, nowdays it’s a pound shop. Frank Tailors, Thomas Pelling off licence, and John H King (with the models of Barking’s past on top. Celebrating Town Charter 1931, King's Drapers were formerly on the site of Burton's at 2 East Street The old Wesleyan Church was replaced by the new Central Hall in 1928.

Tamara Froud's mosaic of Central Hall in Short Blue Place, where it used to stand

During World War Two the main hall was damaged by a bomb. They demolished the building in 1951, building a new church to the rear facing London Road.

The old church was replaced by a cinema first called Frivolity (on the plans submitted).

We know it as The Capitol, which closed in the 1960s, it is now Poundland.

To the left of Central Hall was Fawley House. To the right, The London South Western Bank (No.41) it was built in 1899, which became Bulley Jewellers, people remember the clock in the floor, and more recently McDonald’s. Bulley Jewellers were original at No.1 London Road.

Jake Attewell's Barking Heritage Mural, the old bank from 1899, illuminated by Immersive Me

Around 1931 the demolition of the old cottages 67-81 took place to make way for London Road, an extension of Barking Road coming from East Ham. At the time a new grand cinema was planned for this site but planning permission was turned down by the council (probably because of the new road).

Gosling’s boot shop was at 83, this was replaced by Grey’s Radio on the corner of now London/Linton Road.

There is a stone emblem on this building which had been covered up; we hope to bring it back to life and restore it as part of the project.

An undertaker has been on the site of 85 from c1914 until the present day J.Cooper from around 1914 and later T Cribbs the present day owner. Tobacconist Sarah Coggins moved in next door, approximately 1933. The Tower Coffee Bar took the shop over in 1960, with the Coggins family still living above the shop. A decade later came the present owner, Top Deck (fish restaurant). Edward Hewett stationer occupied No.97 which incorporated The Barking Advertiser. J.T.Worricker had another shop at 103 around 1930.

Lloyd’s Bank was on the corner with Cambridge Road - 109. The whole section of shops on both sides of East Street from London Road to the Station was renamed Station Parade. They were given new door numbers on two separate occasions.

We now cross the road to the south side and come back down towards the Abbey.

The station was on the same level as East Street and had a level crossing. Next to the crossing was the Peto Arms public house, also known as The Railway Hotel.Originally called the Peto Arms this pub was named after Samuel M Peto who brought the LTS Railway to Barking in the 1850sThe parade of shops worked their way down to Ripple Road.

As time and progress marched on, a much needed bridge over the rails track was built. This put an end to the Peto Arms and shops and new ones were built.

Going back to 1614 John Wilde left a house on the site which became Burton's, at 2 East Street to house the poor and needy to live rent free. These were called Almshouses. In time these dilapidated buildings were sold to William Lake. Two New Almshouses were added to the Almshouses on Station Parade. Some of the shops that graced Station Parade were W. Cross leather goods – trophies –sportswear. Guy Norris - many records were bought there, Wilson & Whitworth stationers, Wing’s Bookshop, Bagels shoes. Reeds Sport shop at No.6 which is now Barking Halal Meats - it still has the advertising boards each side of the upper window to this day.

On the corner with Ripple Road we had J W Garland (have you not seen the photo).

Garlands gave way to the building of The London & Provincial Bank later Barclays Bank now Betfred. The opposite corner was where Thomas Glenny lived in The Paddock, one of the finer residences in Bull/East Street. Even this fell by the wayside and Blake’s Emporium (Blake’s Corner as it is known to this day) was built.

Blake’s Emporium suffered bomb damage during WW2. A decade later Timothy Whites & Taylor Chemist took over this and in time became Boots. 1911/12 saw the building of Nos. 56 to 66 housing Stewart & Son, Maypole Dairies, Sir Marks, Bobby Cousins, Dewhurst Butchers, Killwick Furniture and Boots Chemist. The occupants of 52-54 were J.Sainsbury and Sol Fisher shoes at 50. My wife still has a pair of green stilettos shoes she bought in 50/60s from Fishers.

Blake’s Market opened in 1922 alterations to the market took place in 1950. Sadly it was destroyed by fire in 1971. It had two main passage ways flanked by trades and dealers.

I am sure Fisher shoe shop was between the two passageways at the front on East Street and a tobacconist to the right on the corner where the Town Hall is. People remember Trueman’s fishmongers – Laurie's ladies wear – England’s Butchers – Fanny Shaw stockings – Wards greengrocers – Rodney’s comics. When I was young I was fascinated by the live eels they had in the market. The cafe right down the end was a favourite place for swimmers after a dip in the pool next door.

The Town Hall was constructed in 1893, an impressive looking building and was one of Barking’s finest. The powers that be decided a New Town Hall was needed and it was officially opened in 1958. Known as The Assembly Rooms situated to rear and right of the old Town Hall. Then the old Town Hall had a change in use, becoming Barking’s Magistrates Court. Behind the Old Town Hall we had the Public Baths and Fire Station. The Public Baths was not just a swimming pool. It had what was known as slipper baths where people with no baths at home could pay to have a bath. You could hire towels and buy soap. Male and female sections were separate. The Fire Station was opened 1894 and closed 1937. In the sixties it was used as tea rooms for the Baths next door. It’s all been demolished now and replaced with one ghastly looking hotel (just my opinion).

As previously mention the Wesleyan Church was on the right of the Town Hall. This became The Capitol cinema, many a child spent a Saturday morning watching the films. Iceland presently occupies the site. The four houses next door to the church (including Worricker’s 1^st shop) were raised to the ground to make way for M&S. It’s now Poundland. Grove Place ran down the side of M&S. When the New Town Hall was built the clock tower sat smack in the middle of the view down Grove Place. On the other corner to M&S we had the old Post Office,(32).

Around 1924 the post moved out and in came Nat West Bank.

1933 No.28 was Thomas Bass Fruiterers. 26 had two different bakers over the years James Johnson and Charles Arthy. 1930 saw the building of the Town Club at No.24. Next door is The Duke of York pub. I knew it as the hole in the wall, if I remember rightly you went down steps inside. No.18 in the 1920s had James Jenkins a China and Glass dealer followed by Charles Letts clothier. Next door (16) was Samuel Reed & Taylor makers and suppliers of saddles. Outfitters Simpson & Dawes occupied 14 while Lush & Cook Dry Cleaners were at 12.

Tram on East Street, showing Simpson and Dawes in the early twentieth century

William Cross started his leather business in No.10 before moving to Station Parade. Do you remember J. Simpson the fishmonger at No.8. Barking’s old generations will recognise J.Hollicks (6) Tobacconist newsagent, stationer & confectioner. We had three different coffee rooms on the premises of No.4. 1911/12 Harry & Sam Newman, 1917-27 George, then Elizabeth Parker, from c1929 Arturo Musollini last recorded in 1939. The last Trader was G Suckling Greengrocer. Finally we have Burtons on corner of East Street & Broadway. Plans for Burtons were submitted in 1930. It seems Burton’s generally had a snooker hall above the premises.

If you look up at the building you see elephant incorporated in the design. There is also a stone laid in 1931 by Stanley Howard Burton and these features are still there today.

The Barking Heritage Project celebrates the stories behind these old buildings and hopes to restore many of them - 1-11 East Street has already benefitted from these improvements with generous funding from the The National Lottery Heritage Fund. Our Barking - Heritage Exhibition will be moving from St Margaret's Church in July with additional exhibits and information on the history of Barking high streets and hopefully to Eastbury Manor House in September, launching during the Open house fortnight...